Institute for Biodiversity Science and Sustainability

CAS Anthropology Collections Database


Catalog Number

CAS 0389-2408A,B   CAS 0389-2408A,B; Coptic textile fragments (2)
Category Textiles
Object Name Coptic textile fragments (2)
Culture Coptic Egyptian
Global Region North Africa
Country Egypt
State/Prov./Dist.
County
Other Geographic Data Antinoöpolis (Shaikh Abada aka El Sheik Abara)
Maker's Name Unknown
Date of Manufacture ca. 500-600 CE
Collection Name Rietz Collection of Textiles
Materials Linen; Wool
Description “Pair of tunic sleeve ornaments. Each sleeve ornament consists of two nearly identical bands, with brownish purple figures and borders on the tan, originally white, ground. The same design elements occur on both sleeves. Each band has inverted arcade borders and crenellated ends. At the upper end of three of the bands is a nude warrior carrying a shield, at the lower another nude warrior wearing a sword-belt and holding the left hand aloft. The same warriors appear on the fourth band, but their positions are reversed. Between the two warriors, and placed at a right angle to their line or march, is a small running lion. Dots act as filler motif. The foundation is linen rep, 16 x 12 [warp : weft per square cm]; the ornamentation is tapestry, wool and linen on linen warp, 8 x 36 [warp : weft per square cm], with weft float details. Normal tapestry technique was used with a minimal use of weft floats. The tapestry elements are whip-stitched to the rep textile pieces, an indication that the pieces were originally part of another garment. All yarn is S-twist. Sixth century. Remarks: See remarks for Number 16 [CAS 0389-2426], which has some of the same motifs but which is earlier in style. The raised hand is an ancient gesture of blessing or protection. The textiles in this group [DL Carroll # 17-26 (CAS 0389-2379, -2381, -2383, -2387, -2395, -2408A,B, -2418, -2428, -2431, -2587)] are reportedly from Shaikh Abada, or El Sheik Abara - the Arabic name for the site is transliterated variously. The ancient city was named Antinoöpolis after a beautiful Greek youth who drowned near there. It was founded in his memory by the emperor Hadrian around A.D. 13. A major weaving center in antiquity, some of its products have a classical flavor that may derive from Hadrian’s interest in early Greek art. The archaic style of Greece was revived during his reign. Later, in the Christian period, Antinoöpolis became the site of a famous monastery founded by Saint Samuel. While it is impossible to place total reliance on antique dealers’ attributions, the textiles in this group have similarities that make a common source believable. It is assumed that Rietz purchased them as a group, perhaps from a dealer in the vicinity.” [From Looms and Textiles of the Copts by Diane Lee Carroll (San Francisco, CA: Memoirs of the California Academy of Sciences, No. 11, 1988); Catalog # 24, pp. i, 102, 112-113.]
Dimensions (cm) Width = 25.0; 30.0, Length = 20.0; 21.0