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NATURALIST'S ALMANAC

What to Look For This Fall

liese greensfelder

October
Thousands of spawning kokanee salmon leave Lake Tahoe to thrash their way up Taylor Creek on the lake’s southwest shore this month. Introduced to Tahoe in 1944, the fish thrived until another introduced species—mysid shrimp, which arrived in the early 1960s—depleted their food supply. Since then, the size of an average Tahoe kokanee has plummeted from about 20 inches to less than a foot. Kokanee, a form of landlocked sockeye salmon, reach spawning age at three to five years. Before leaving the lake, male kokanee develop their characteristic hooked jaw, and both sexes turn a striking red. A few weeks after depositing and fertilizing eggs in Taylor Creek’s gravel streambeds, the fish die. Their decomposing bodies nourish the aquatic insects which will in turn nourish the young kokanee that hatch three months later. An underwater viewing room, or “stream profile chamber,” built by the United States Forest Service provides a fish-eye view of the spawning action. Open weekends only in October, 8-5. For information call the USFS at (530) 573-2674.

Hard-shelled nuts ensconced in green husks fall from California black walnut trees this month and next. Though the trees are not grown commercially (except where used as rootstocks for the more familiar English walnut) many people garner a modest income by gathering nuts beneath roadside trees and selling them to wholesalers. Shelled and dried by commercial processors, the nutmeats are used in baking and cooking. Native to California, Juglans californica is becoming increasingly rare in the wild. Yet thousands of stately back walnut trees planted last century still grace farmsteads and line country roads in the Great Central Valley. The trees’ red-tinged, chocolate-colored wood is coveted by craftspeople who use it for furniture, stringed instruments, and gunstocks. Stands of the smaller, multistemmed southern California variety can be found in such places as Elyria Canyon Park in Los Angeles, while many drainages that cut into the Central Valley harbor trees of the northern California variety.

November
Before Europeans stormed the state, perennial grasses such as purple stipa and blue wildrye held sway over California’s grasslands. For reasons still not fully understood, annual grasses like wild oats and ripgut brome that arrived with the Europeans soon outstripped the native flora. These annuals drop their seeds in spring and early summer and then wither away. Brown California hillsides take on their green winter cloaks in November and December after the season’s first rains germinate the fallen seeds. Because heavy grazing, poor soils, and long, dry summers favor annual grasses over perennials, coastal prairies—which benefit from cooler summers and deeper soils—support the state’s most intact remnants of low-elevation native grasses.

December
Migrating more than 6,000 miles from their summer feeding areas in the Bering and Chukchi seas to lagoons in Baja California, gray whales usually hit northern California waters in early December. By Christmas, San Diegans can spot the animals. During migration, these 30- to 50-foot-long mammals stick relatively close to the coast, so great whale-watching spots are promontories such as those at points Reyes, Lobos, and Loma. The whales travel in small groups at about five miles per hour, often blowing several times nearly in unison every three to seven minutes. Spouts can be seen from land. Binoculars will reveal the whales’ backs and flukes.

Dense beds of shiny black California mussels cover vast tracts of rocks in the mid-intertidal zone along California’s exposed coast. As the beds expand, they smother neighboring organisms, and the mussels’ sharp shells shred competitors such as kelp that wash against them. Yet not even the superglue-like threads that anchor the mussels to their rocky perches can withstand wave action spawned by December storms. The patches of rock exposed when mussels are ripped away are recolonized by new mussels within a few years, but in the meantime, the bald spots play a crucial role in preserving the coast’s biological opulence by providing an anchoring site for myriad organisms such as sea palms, algae, and barnacles.

Millions of monarch butterflies spend the cool nights from October to mid-February hanging from favorite eucalyptus and pine trees that grow between Mendocino and Ensenada, Mexico. On warmer days the overwintering insects disperse to feed on nectar. This generation of monarchs—which live about eight months—braves the entire southern migration. Though most start their journey within California, some may arrive from as far away as British Columbia. It takes three to five shorter-lived generations to wander back north. (The fabled Mexican groves where monarchs overwinter are reserved for butterflies that migrate from more easterly regions.) One of the most lovely spectacles in California, hanging clusters of monarchs can be seen at the Monarch Grove Sanctuary in Pacific Grove (docents present daily, noon to 3 p.m., October 1 to February 14, (831) 375-0982), Morro Bay State Park, and Natural Bridges State Park.

Aspenglow

With leaf color waxing and tourism waning, fall is a good time to visit the Sierra’s east side. Studded with clear sunny days and chilly nights, October weather pushes cottonwoods, aspens, and willows to peaks of autumn brilliance. Sunlight and warmth during the day spur leaves to churn out color-promoting compounds. Cool temperatures at night trap these compounds in foliage by limiting leaf respiration and slowing the flow of water and nutrients from leaves to wood.

Aspens provide the most spectacular displays on the eastern slope. Their color washes across hillsides and runs like molten gold down the canyons west of Bishop, Mammoth Lakes, and Independence. Most trees in a stand are genetically identical, and can cover many acres. Timing of bud break, color change, and leaf drop as well as the hues of leaves in spring and fall vary from one clonal grove to the next. Such differences are easily seen in October, when aspen valleys become magical patchworks of color.