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CALIFORNIA WILD

 

HERE AT THE ACADEMY

Extreme Birding

Stephen F. Bailey

A sedentary bird with a preference for steep, rocky terrain, the canyon wren is one of North America's least-studied birds.

Photo courtesy Stephen Dowlan

I’ve seen many examples of extreme birding; heck, I’ve committed such acts myself. I’m attempting to see all of the world’s roughly 10,000 species of birds, even though the hundreds of extremely rare and near-inaccessible species make the quest impossible.

Phoebe Snetsinger, the record-holder in this quest with over 8,400 species on her list, died on her third bird tour of Madagascar. She had defied and defeated malignant melanoma, probably in part because of her passion to see birds, only to succumb to that ubiquitous killer the automobile accident. Other birders who ventured into bird-rich Colombia were kidnapped by guerrillas, suffered severe injuries, and caught life-threatening diseases prior to their release.

But there are other kinds of extreme birding. Some involve shorter time frames or direct competition among birders. Others are driven by the desire to be “the first.” A few of us have set ourselves the challenging but attainable goal of seeing all of the bird families of the world. There are slightly over 200, depending on whose taxonomy one chooses. Two Europeans with too much time and money recently decided to be the first to do this in one year. Eleven months later they thought they had succeeded—then in December, they learned that North American bird authorities had split the olive warbler into its own family, prompting a desperate flight to Mexico to see that bird before the year ended.

Sometimes extreme birding requires extreme weather. For decades, East Coast birders have eagerly awaited hurricanes to see what tropical seabirds their winds would bring. But in the wake of hurricanes the coastal beaches and inlets are often inaccessible at the very times they should be searched for storm-wrecked seabirds. Or misguided law enforcement personnel who don’t understand the importance of documenting the rare birds will prevent access to the devastated areas.

One of the most venerable forms of extreme birding is the Big Day. A small team of birders tries to see or hear as many bird species as possible in one 24-hour period. Many states and counties have traditional competitions, with numerous teams competing annually on a given day, such as New Jersey’s “World Series of Birding,” the granddaddy of all such contests in North America. Nowadays, Big Days are usually non-profit fundraisers called Birdathons, with donors pledging money for each species tallied. For the past eleven years Monterey County birders have organized a Birdathon one day each spring to raise money for the Ventana Wilderness Society’s Big Sur Ornithology Lab.

Two years ago, the American Birding Association (ABA) introduced an “America’s Birdiest City” competition. The winner is the city which amasses the highest number of bird species sighted in a 24-hour period, using the aggregate lists from as many birders as that city could muster. The winner was San Diego, with New York City running a surprising second.

Then the ABA added an “America’s Birdiest County” category. Previously, teams had found as many as 208 species in Monterey County, the most for any single-county Big Day in North America.

“Mr. Monterey Birds,” Don Roberson, organized nearly all the Monterey County birders to make a run for the new championship.

The natural diversity of the region, together with years of dedicated birding have raised the list of wild birds seen in Monterey County to 486. It now ranks third among North American counties behind San Diego and Los Angeles, both of which extend all the way from the Pacific Ocean to the deserts and include many more birders than Monterey. We thought we had a chance to be number one, but it would take exceptional organization and “game day” performance to win the prize.

With so many good birders covering the whole county, there was no reason to assign the most common species. Rather, the strategy was to determine the unusual birds in each area and direct birders to target those species, plus search for other rarities. Roberson divided the county into 16 different territories, with a short list of target birds for each area to minimize the chance of a bird being missed.

There were no formal qualifications to participate. Some group leaders accepted all volunteers into their team, thus opening the competition to the general public, but every leader was a respected birder with local expertise.

I chose to bird alone. My area was the southern Big Sur coast and some adjacent mountains and canyons. I had covered this little-known area for Monterey County’s breeding bird atlas project a few years earlier, and I had access to the University of California’s Big Creek Reserve.

One quirk of the rules for America’s Birdiest County is that the 24-hour period does not have to begin and end at midnight. After careful strategizing, Don began our Day at 4:00 pm on Friday May 2. This would give us two afternoons on which to “seawatch”—scope for seabirds blown near shore by the afternoon winds. The ABA rules prohibit birdwatching from boats, thus removing one of the county’s best birding habitats from the competition.

As Friday drew closer the weather forecast grew ominous; Monterey County was to be hammered by the biggest May storm in history. But the date could not be changed. Scores of birders, some from other parts of California, had arranged their schedules around the Birdathon. Numerous sponsors led by Jill Himonas of the Wild Bird Center of Monterey had arranged a grand countdown celebration with prizes and a silent auction. A celebratory dinner had been organized for all participants. Would the extreme weather hurt or help?

I did not have to wait long for my answer. Driving down Highway One in the rain, I saw fog obscuring the mountains and the offshore waters. Worse was the wind, a swirling, gusty southeast gale that whipped the ocean to white foam and swept the waters clear of seabirds. Land birds were likewise hiding and silent. Each bird tallied was a minor triumph. Working up and down Big Creek Reserve I did manage to see an American dipper near its nest, six mountain quail, and a hermit thrush. The wind, rain, and fog made owling hopeless, so instead I huddled in a sleeping bag all night as the rain drummed on my car’s roof and gusts rocked it on its springs.

On Saturday morning there were a few lulls in the rain but the gale had merely shifted to the southwest. A brief respite allowed me to see eight rufous-crowned sparrows, but the coast ridge proved nearly unbirdable. Even worse, the only access road to half of my territory had become slick mud impassable even by a four wheel drive.

After noon I gave up. Driving north out of my territory quickly took me out from under the edge of the storm. At Andrew Molera State Park I found sunshine, birders, and birds! I joined their efforts, then phoned in my results to Rita Carratello at headquarters, where they were taking field reports and reassigning birders according to which species had yet to be found. My thrush and sparrow were the first reported. Most other parties were reporting good results, so there was hope after all.

After dinner, our spirits soared as the countdown revealed one bonus bird after another. All the seabirds that had been seen on the day’s whalewatching boats—and thus could not be counted—had also been spotted from shore because of the strong afternoon winds. Although the mountains had proved nearly unbirdable, the storm had pushed many of the montane birds to lower elevations. Other teams had seen all of my birds except the rufous-crowned sparrow—not a rare bird, though its habitat is very localized. Every team had added at least one such “exclusive” bird to the aggregate list.

Our grand total was 248 species, making Monterey County officially America’s Birdiest County!

The runners up were Los Angeles with 239 species and San Diego with 227.

A year later, Los Angeles and San Diego were out for revenge. Almost everything was the same in 2004 except the weather and the rules. The event organizer decided that although each individual birder would be restricted to 24 hours, each county could spread its birding over 48 hours. However, most of us learned of this change too late to alter our schedules, so we generally adhered to the same 24 hours: beginning and ending at 4 p.m., with a few teams running later.

We anticipated a serious challenge from Cameron County, the southernmost county in Texas, which hosted the national ABA convention on their chosen weekend and thus had hundreds of extra birders on hand. They also witnessed the greatest arrival of migrating landbirds in their history. Our other main rivals were Los Angeles and San Diego, whose organizer had instituted the rule change and prohibited boats.

The weather was gorgeous. After some patches of low cloud burned off, it was fair and mild with light winds. How would our count in good weather compare to what it had been in terrible weather? Mine was vastly better and I saw more birds in the first two hours than in all 24 hours the previous year. My primary target birds fell into place nicely: mountain quail, purple martin, American dipper, canyon wren, rufous-crowned sparrow, white-throated swift, but I still wanted something more.

Twenty miles down the South Coast Ridge Road I heard what I was listening for. I braked to a stop and savored the sweet sliding trill of the black-chinned sparrow—a “bonus” bird. I called in my sightings to a delighted Carratello, but she told me, “We need seabirds.” The wind was too light to blow them toward shore. I spent the rest of my time seawatching. I saw none of the needed seabirds, but I did count six species of cetaceans, including two fin whales, two groups of Risso’s dolphins, and hundreds of common dolphins swimming alongside northern right whale dolphins.

Luckily, the winds strengthened toward evening and a team birding the next shift, from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., saw almost all the missing seabirds. Again, I contributed only one bird to the overall list—the canyon wren, as even the black-chinned sparrow was found by another birder. We totaled 248 species, exactly matching our winning score under very different conditions in 2003. Would it be enough to retain our title of America’s Birdiest County? We went home happy.

When the final numbers were totaled both Cameron and Los Angeles counties fell short. But San Diego County emerged as our nemesis. With different teams covering their whole county throughout the expanded 48-hour period, they topped 266 species. Impressive! But we still raised over $6,000 for the Big Sur Ornithology Lab, which the Monterey Peninsula Audubon Society matched, and had a great time doing it. We still remember that we were America’s first Birdiest County, and we can be a “good runner up” by congratulating San Diego County. Until next year, that is.


Stephen F. Bailey, former Director of the Pacific Grove Museum of Natural History, recently retired in order to see the “second half” of the world’s birds and to lead birding and nature tours.